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Saturday, February 1, 2014

Sketchpacking Siem Reap Jan 2014 Sketches (1/2)

From 9-14 January 2014, four urban sketchers from Singapore went on an adventure to sketch the ruins of Angkor. We embarked on a 6-day trip to Siem Reap to see and capture the wonders of the ancient Khmer empire on paper. Joining us was a renown Singaporean artist who happened to be there at the same time for a painting trip. Tung Yue Nang (aka Tungtong) had been to Siem Reap many times over the last decade, and kindly took us around the see the sights of Angkor and the less touristy parts of the Cambodian city.

Here is the collection of sketches I did during the trip.

I have done some rearrangement of the pages for this post to make reading easier. In reality, the commentaries on each of the sketches are written on the reverse side of the page. I have rearranged them so that they are shown together with the sketch to avoid confusion.

I have split the scans into 2 blog posts. This first part covers the first half of the trip where we visited Tonle Sap lake, Chong Kneas fishing village, Kompong Khleang, Bayon temple, and Ta Prohm. The second post will cover the remaining sketches done at Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, and Preah Khan.

Day 1: Singapore to Siem Reap

Our flight from Changi Airport was at 1 pm. Tony came to send us off. We arrived at Siem Reap airport at around 3 pm. The airport is very small, and we had to walk from the plane to the arrival lounge. A car was waiting for us to fetch us to Amigo Villa. The driver's name was Sky. We dropped our things and rested a short while before Tungtong arrived with his bicycle, and took us around the Night Market and Pub Street, then to dinner.

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Day 2: Tonle Sap and Siem Reap

We woke up early to catch the sunrise at Tonle Sap lake. Tungtong came in a tuktuk to fetch us and we headed south to Chong Kneas floating village, where we sketched in the middle of a fishing village and fish "supermarket". It was all open air, muddy, and dusty. It is a harsh land, but the children there seemed happy. We had brunch there and headed back towards town in the afternoon for some proper lunch. My camera died, and we tried to find a place to get it fixed or get a new one. Fortunately Parka lent me his camera, which I used for the rest of the trip. We spent the afternoon and evening back in Siem Reap town.

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Day 3: Bayon and Ta Prohm

We woke up a bit later and had breakfast at our guesthouse (complimentary) before heading out to Bayon to catch the morning light on the stone faces. We spent the morning there and had lunch at the Big Tree BBQ nearby in Angkor Thom (Bayon is also in Angkor Thom). In the afternoon we headed out to Ta Prohm to sketch the trees eating up the buildings.

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Copyright © Favian Ee  Jan 2014

Continued at Sketchpacking Siem Reap Jan 2014 Sketches (2/2)

Siem Reap Sketch Trip Sharing

When Edric, Parka, Art Foo and I returned from our Siem Reap sketch trip on 14 January 2014, we were invited by Mdm Tia to share our sketches and experiences that same weekend while our memories were still fresh. It took place on a Saturday morning at Temasek Polytechnic where Mdm Tia works. We showed our sketches and photographs, and answered questions from the floor. I made a short video with an old digital camera (because my G12 died during the trip), so the quality isn't very high. But then again, it's probably a good thing, because the G12 doesn't have autofocus and optical zoom in video mode.

Here is the short video I made of our sharing session, and the visit to the Glocal Connect Village next door where our Urban Sketchers Singapore exhibition was being held. There isn't any footage of my part of the presentation though, since I was the one shooting. But to give you a rough idea, I shared photos while the others shared from their sketches, since I was the main photographer.

Enjoy!

Singapore Urban Sketchers at Urban Sketchers Symposium in Barcelona

 First of all, my profuse apologies to my friends who kindly responded to the invitation to do this interview for the delay. I know it's been a long wait, but nevertheless, here it is!

In July 2013, several of my urban sketcher friends from Singapore attended the Fourth international Urban Sketchers Symposium held at Barcelona. This is a yearly event where urban sketchers from all over the world gather in one city to attend workshops and sketch the city together. Some of them extended their stay to travel to other areas to do more sketching. I managed to touch base with 2 of them for this feature: Parka (who runs the famous Parka Blogs), and Tony (whom we have affectionately dubbed the mascot of Urban Sketchers Singapore).

Barcelona
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

SD: Can you tell us about the Urban Sketchers Symposium. What is it about?

Tony: It is a three-day affair where the urban sketchers from all the world come together to share and exchange their tips and knowledge on urban sketching.

Parka: It's a series a workshops organised by the main Urban Sketchers group. A group of sketching instructors from all over the world would come and teach those who have registered for the courses

Paul Wang sharing his palette
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

SD: What inspired you to go for it? 

Tony: I love to travel and experience new things in new environments.

Parka: I wasn't there for the workshops, which I thought was too pricey. I was there to join Tia, Paul, KK (Kiah Kiean) and Pramote for their sketching trip after the symposium was over.

Pramote (from Thailand) at work
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

SD: What did you do there?

Tony: 
It was always exciting to look forward to the day when I woke up every morning. Every day was a totally different experience. There was never a dull moment and there was no time to be lonely because there were many things to see and to do. Walking around and sketching the city kept us busy from morning till night. Eating alone or in the good company of friends can be a real adventure itself.

Parka: 
Those who, like myself, did not register for the workshops could join the sketchcrawls that were organised each day. The organizers had the locations all marked out on the map so it was rather convenient to just follow the map and cover the places on foot and sketch.

On hindsight, it was good that I didn't go for the workshops. I would not have been able to sketch as much if I had attended them. That gave me the opportunity to draw from 10am to 6pm, covering many  places in Barcelona. 

Even though I joined the sketchcrawl, I was only with the group at the first location for each day. I went around on my own to draw after that. You can draw more when you're alone, though you do meet sketchers along the way. I met lots of sketchers who were just there for the sketchcrawls.

Urban Sketchers at work (Tony at far left)
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

SD: Artists from all over the world attended the symposium. Who were you excited to meet at there, and why?

Tony: 
Before I came to Barcelona, I had no idea who would be attending, so I came with an open mind. On the day of the symposium itself, it was overwhelming to see famous faces which I had only previously seen on Facebook. Several people left a very good impression, and they will be etched in my mind for a long time to come, such as Gerard Michel, Lapin and Santi Salles. These individuals are gentle and humble despite their fantastic and expressive sketching styles. Their passion for sketching is very infectious. There is so much to learn from these masters.

Parka:  
Nina Johansson - I like the colours she uses for her sketches.

Gerard Michel - If I'm not wrong, He teaches architecture drawing in Belgium. His architecture drawings are marvelous. They are simple but they convey detail. He's very precise with his sketches and I attribute it to his intense observation skills. He even gave me a copy of his published sketchbook - for free! His real sketchbook and printed sketchbook look identical.

Pete Scully - I follow his blog and like his sketches. It was fun talking to him on the last sketchcrawl.

Lapin - It's pretty cool to see him sketching people live. 

Other people I met include:

And many more.

Parka with Nina Johansson
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

SD: What about the trip was memorable for you?

Tony:  
Apart from having the opportunity to attend the Urban Sketching Symposium, the highlight of my trip has to be the Sagrada Família. It was an emotional experience to have the chance to visit, in my opinion, the most beautiful church building in the world. It was certainly a jaw-dropping experience to visit not only the interior and exterior, but also the tower.

Parka:
It was fun sketching with other like-minded people. It's like our local sketchwalk in Singapore, but with new people. Of course, you're in a new environment, and sketching heightens the sense of being there.

The most memorable event would probably be teaching a non-sketcher friend Carole how to sketch. She was there to accompany her sketcher friend Beliza who was there for the symposium. They are from Luxembourg. I taught Carole for an hour or so on the basics of sketching, and she could draw the Arc de Triomf at Barcelona the next day! Now I will tell this story to anyone who says to me that they can't draw.

The Sagrada Família
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

Sagrada Família interior
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.
Sketches in Granada
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

SD: How long was the trip? Besides Barcelona, where else did you go?

Tony: 
I spent 10 days in Barcelona only.

Parka:
For me, it was a 11 day trip covering Barcelona, Granada, Seviile and Madrid, in that order. Barcelona for 5 days, and the others about 2 days each. Those cities are huge. Two days are not enough for sketchers to cover them.

Granada
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.
Ch'ng K'ah Kiean (from Penang) in Seville
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

Madrid
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

SD: Which place did you like the most, and why?

Tony: 
 I enjoyed the Mar Bella Beach, the nude beach, very much. I love the water, sand, and the sun. It was so relaxing to spend time there after the symposium's hectic schedule.

Parka:
I'm more interested in architecture so I guess I liked Barcelona most. They have really amazing architecture. There are buildings that date back to the Middle Ages! I could have drawn at every junction but didn't have the time.

This is my first trip to Europe so it's great to be able to check out how people live in other countries.


SD: How many sketches did you manage to complete?

Tony:  
I never think about how many sketches should I do. I am quite selective about choosing the subject matter that draws to me to sketch it, depending on my mood.

Parka:
I brought along an A4 landscape moleskine sketchbook and managed to fill the 60 pages in it. There's also a smaller square sized sketchbook that I used for smaller sketches.

Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

SD: What were your choice of materials? Any particular reason you chose them?

Tony: 
 It was a real headache for me to decide which materials I wanted. Each time, I tried not to carry too many things, I ended up carrying more. The four most important items I carried at all times were my stool, technical ink pens of various thickness, watersoluble crayons, and waterbrushes. Of course, I brought along some sketchbooks too.

Parka:
Pen, ink and watercolour. I refilled two Pilot Techpoint pens and almost used them up. They are technical pens. For this trip, I decided to use technical pens, which was more convenient than having to refill fountain pens.

I brought Daniel Smith watercolour paints. They come in tubes, but I squeezed them into half pans. They are actually from Whee Teck and I was testing them out. All the colours I chose were transparent ones that would work well with my line art.

Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.
 
SD: Do you recommend others to go for the Symposium? Why or why not?

Tony:  
Anyone can go and take part in Symposium depending on their financial ability. One must be able to enjoy life to fullest. You need to be fit because you have to be prepared physically for long walks. You will be ambassador for your country. Come with open mind and be humble. You should be able to do your own independent research to search for sketching locations thru research work because some volunteers are not paid to help you.

Parka:
It really depends on your style of learning. I prefer to spend the price I might have paid for the symposium on instructional artbooks. I like books better.

If you're there for the workshops, you won't have time to sketch around the city unless you spend extra days there.

Tony (right)
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

SD:: You are pretty experienced sketchers. Do you have any advice for someone who is just starting out and wants to try sketching on vacation?

Tony:  
Just enjoy the the sketching process as you build up your art foundations at your own pace. 

Parka:
Don't bring too much drawing equipment, especially if you're not going to use them. 
I brought only three pens, three brushes, pencil and eraser, watercolour.
Bring a big piece of eraser if you want to use pencil.
Get a good, portable, and light chair so that you can sit anywhere to draw.

Parka's sketching kit
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

Be aware of pickpockets. Never underestimate them. They could range from small kids, to mothers, to buskers. Quite a few people lost their stuff and money during the symposium. Keep everything in a zipped pocket.

Because sketching takes time, you have to expect that you'll visit less places. But you'll be able to remember those places you visited better because you spent more time there sketching.

Mdm Tia at work
Copyright © Teoh Yi Chie 2013. Used with permission.

SD: Is there anything else you would like to share?

Tony: Many of us rush through life and so fail to appreciate its beauty. Slow down to enjoy life.


SD: Do you have online gallery/blog where people can view your artwork?

Tony: 
 No, I have not had the opportunity to set up a gallery or blog for people to view my artwork online. I am too busy sketching, which is so addictive.

Parka:
All my sketches from Spain are here:

All my blog entries made in Spain are here:

Aaaannddd.... Here's the video of the trip made by Parka!


Thank you so much for your time, guys!

Friday, January 31, 2014

Photos of Sketches (AND VIDEO!!!) from Siem Reap Sketch Trip!

It's been over 2 weeks since I returned from Siem Reap on a sketchpacking trip with my Urban Sketcher friends, and it was a whirlwind of an experience! We practically hit the ground running, and it was all "go, go, go" during our short 6-day stay. That is, until I came down with fever and diarrhoea. But that's another story.

I will scan and post my sketches over the coming long weekend (it's the Lunar New Year!), but here are some photos I took of my sketches. I must really thank Parka for lending me his camera, because mine died on the morning of the second day into the trip and refused to be revived.

Edric sketching on the plane

Floating petrol station at
Chong Kneas Floating Village at Tonle Sap Lake

Lunch place at Chong Kneas Floating Village area

Kompong Khleang

Miss Wong Cocktail Bar
(it even has a skull in the toilet!)

Bayon Temple. This was the 2nd sketch I did from the outside
because I wasn't satisfied with the first watercolour one (below).


Faces of Bayon

Ta Prohm. Made famous by the Tomb Raider movie.

David and Dalis, a brother-sister pair I met at Ta Prohm.
Dalis later helped me pick colours for my sketch. She started
by pointing to my Opera (neon pink) pan. I used the colours she picked
for the clothing of the people in the sketch. The result is below.


Ta Prohm sketch #2, coloured with the help of Dalis.

Ta Prohm sketch #1

Phimeanakas in Angkor Thom.
Legend had it that the king had to ascend every night for a
tryst with a serpent spirit in the form of a woman.

One of the 12 towers of Prasat Suor Prat.
Said to be used to settle disputes by divine judgement.

Reliefs on the wall of the Leper King Terrace

Garuda relief along the walls of the Elephant Terrace

One of our only show-and-tells of our trip!

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

Bas relief of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk at Angkor Wat

One of the inner "libraries" inside Angkor Wat

Preah Khan

And finally, the moment you have been waiting for - Parka's video of our sketch trip! Just to note, the shots are not in chronological order. Enjoy!


Friday, January 3, 2014

A Glimpse of Ancient Angkor - Required Reading

In the last 2 months, I've had at least 4 (groups of) friends who visited Siem Reap. But it won't be long till I get to see the magnificence of Angkor with my own eyes. There are many books on the ancient city, and I have borrowed not a few travel guides from the library over the months. The most significant book, however, is one I borrowed from one of my to-be travel mates, who at one point taught Cambodian art history in a local school as part of his curriculum. This book is none other than Zhou Daguan's A Record of Cambodia: The Land and its People.



What makes this volume so special? It is the only surviving eyewitness account of Angkor while it was still an inhabited and thriving city. Written by a Chinese emissary on a diplomatic mission to Angkor in the 13th century, the account describes life as it was back at the height of the kingdom's glory. While the record is only a short 8000 characters long and possibly fragmented in its preservation, and while it may be biased with an educated Chinese foreigner's perspective, it nevertheless gives a rare glimpse into the lives of the Angkorians as it used to be and the splendour of the buildings before the city was mysteriously abandoned to the jungle. For an artist intending to sketch the ruins of the ancient Khmer empire, the descriptions in the book give me the material to imagine what they might have once looked like - towers, bridges and statues of gold; tiles of clay and lead; a statue of reclining Buddha with water flowing from its navel; private pools at every house or every few houses. What is now a barren structure swarming with tourists was once a living, breathing city with people, markets, kings and noblemen, slaves and merchants - one of (if not) the greatest kingdoms in Southeast Asia.

Yet even the greatest kingdoms may be laid low. From Zhou's account, we see not only the spendour, but the less flattering aspects of Khmer life. Some customs are unimaginable to us, such as the ritual of "zhentan". Another account describes how ill-equipped and disorganized the army was (they wore no armour, had no projectiles, and no strategy). One can speculate about what caused the Khmers to abandon their great city to the jungle and move southeast, eventually making their capital in Phnom Penh, but until more light is shed, we cannot be entirely sure. Most likely the abandonment of Angkor was due to a combination of factors, not the least of which was Siamese aggression. Ironical, though, since Angkor is just north of Siem Reap (Khmer for "Siam's Defeat").

The documentary below gives a good starting point for a look into Angkor in its heyday, but if you are a history buff planning for a trip to Angkor, I would highly recommend getting Zhou Daguan's book translated by Peter Harris. This recent English translation was not translated from the earlier French translations, but directly from the original Chinese text. It is full of helpful notes and very readable, and will certainly make your visit richer.